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我非常榮幸能和美麗的豐吉,中國的高端珠寶設計先鋒之一進行一次訪談。隨著品牌在巴黎和上海的發展,豐吉成為了一位擁有巨大成就感和藝術背景的女性。在2012年于倫敦藝術大學獲得珠寶設計碩士學位之后,她沒有局限于為英國時尚教父 Alexander McQueen珠寶首飾部門工作,與此同時她還獲得了全國鉆石分級與寶石鑒定最權威機構--美國寶石學院(G.I.A)寶石專家的資格,以及在École de Bijouterie-Joaillerie de Paris(其在巴黎具百年歷史且排名第一的“貴族珠寶私塾”的稱號)的潛心研究。她的每件作品,都注入了情感,承載著想象力;同時又不失女性化,具有浪漫的表達,從豐吉對每件作品清晰獨到的見解中,不難發現她背后的那一份對作品的深愛以及一份獨特的品味。接下來的這些小問題可以帶領大家對豐吉以及這個品牌有更多的認識。

I had the pleasure of being able to meet with the beautiful Feng J., one of China’s leading haute jewelry designers. With her brand established in both Paris and Shanghai, she is an incredibly accomplished woman, with an equally impeccable background to boot. Having graduated from the University of Arts London with a Master’s in Jewelry Design in 2012, she moved on to not only work for Alexander McQueen’s jewelry department, but also proceeded to acquire the Graduated Gemologist qualification from the Gemological Institute of America, as well as research European high jewelry craftsmanship in École de Bijouterie-Joaillerie de Paris, one of the oldest and most prestigious jewelry schools in Europe. Yet her remarkable transcript does not quite encapsulate her true enthusiasm for what she does; serene and effortlessly elegant, it is clear to see within her an obvious love and affection for her work in the way her eyes glimmered with a quiet delight and pride as she carefully explained each individual design. Certainly, her designs were undoubtedly made to be talked about - each piece is dazzling, exquisitely intricate, and beautifully unique – quite literally, as each piece is one-of-a-kind.

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La Orchidee - necklace/ brooch
蝴蝶蘭項鏈/胸針
8ct rubellite/Imperial icy-crystal jade/ fancy colored sapphire/ diamond/ titanium/18k gold
8ct 紅碧璽/冰種翡翠雕件/彩色藍寶石/白鉆/鈦金屬/18k白金

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La printemps – brooch 春天胸針

4.5ct Spinel/mother of pearl carving / tanzanite / aquamarine/ white diamond/ 18k gold
4.5ct 尖晶/ 母貝雕件/坦桑石/海藍寶/白鉆/18k白金

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跟我們簡單講一講你自己,包括你的成就以及如何走到今天的。

Tell us about yourself, including what you do and how you got there.  

我是豐吉,一位華人高級珠寶設計師。在2016年,我在巴黎正式創立自己的同名高級珠寶品牌 Feng J. Haute Joaillerie,現在同時在巴黎和上海設立品牌工作室和品鑒沙龍。

I'm Feng J, a high jewelry creator and contemporary jewelry artist. I established my own brand: Feng J. Haute Joaillerie in Paris in 2016, now based in Paris and Shanghai.

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是從什么時候開始你決定正式從事珠寶設計這個領域?

When did you first realize you wanted to pursue a career as a jewelry designer? 

自從我很小的時候,我就對珠寶設計產生了濃厚的興趣,并且把它當作我的理想職業。然后,在我從倫敦藝術大學獲的珠寶設計碩士學位后,香港保利邀請我設計的一件作品放在其拍賣珠寶專場上。我沒有想到這件名叫“翠魂”,同時也是我的第一個作品會以場內設計師作品最高價成交,-甚至到今天仍然保持著最高價記錄。在我看來這給與了我極大的自信同時也激發了我在珠寶設計旅程的開端。 

Since I was very young, I always had a tremendous passion for jewelry design, and considered it as my dream job. Then, when I graduated from U.A.L. (University of the Arts London) with a master’s degree in Jewelry Design, I was invited to put a piece of my jewelry in Poly Auction Hong Kong. I didn't expect that this very first piece made the record of the highest bid of any piece of designer jewelry - even today it still holds the highest price record. I think this gave me a much of the confidence I needed to use as a trigger to seriously start my journey in jewelry design.

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誰是你業內最大的啟蒙導師?你收獲的最寶貴的建議是什么?

Who have been your biggest mentors in this industry? Best advice you’ve received?

事實上我不認為我的啟蒙老師不僅僅是指在珠寶行業,我愛慕所有那些具有創意思想的人們比如 Steve Jobs 又比如 Elon Musk,但假設必須從業內選擇一個最大的啟蒙導師,那那個人肯定是 Joel Arthur Rosentha,他是一個如此有才華的創造家,想象力又是如此的生動和多樣性。

Actually I don't think my mentors are from the jewelry industry, I adore all creative, such as Steve Jobs and Elon Musk, but if must choose one in jewelry industry, it would have to be Joel Arthur Rosenthal; he is such an inventor and his creativity so vivid and diverse.

 

講講你的作品風格吧,是什么讓你的作品變得獨一無二?

Tell us about your design style; what makes your collections unique in the industry? 

我的風格更像是印象派繪畫,就像一句話說的“用寶石為顏料來畫畫”。我出生于一個藝術世家,,家傳源璽的收藏讓我從小就充滿了藝術的熏陶。在我看來,光彩斑斕的寶石比如紅寶石,藍寶石,綠寶石-都是是畫板上的顏料。一定程度上來說我被歐洲印象派感染,強調光影,層次,色彩斑斕。因此我也很相信“用寶石為顏料來畫畫”這種說法。

My style is encapsulated in my design philosophy: "creating jewelry is like painting with gemstones”. I was born into an artist family, so a natural affinity to fine arts and painting has always been deeply rooted within me. In my eyes, fancy colored stones like rubies, sapphires, emeralds - all are paints on palette. I’m quite inspired by European Impressionism, a movement so fundamentally built upon the employment of light, shade, and reflection. As such, I believe very much in “creating jewelry is like painting with gemstones.” 

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Le Cygny – Brooch
天鵝胸針
Crystal Opal / Moon Stone/ Rose-Cut Diamond / White Diamond
18k White Gold
水晶澳寶/月光石/玫瑰切鉆石/白鉆/18k 白金

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La Orchidee suite – necklace 蘭花項鏈

11.26ct no-heated royal blue sapphire / 17.02ct Crystal Jade / Tanzanite / Blue sapphires / Purple Sapphires / White diamond / Titanium / 18k White Gold

11.26ct 無燒皇家藍寶石/17.02ct 冰種翡翠/坦桑石/彩色藍寶石/白鉆/鈦金屬/18白金

什么樣的人適合佩戴你的珠寶?

What kind of person wears your jewelry? 

女性化,優雅,但是大膽的

Feminine and elegant, yet bold

 

你想讓人們在佩戴你的珠寶的時候有什么樣的感受?

How do you want people to feel when wearing your jewelry? 

我希望她們在戴著我設計的珠寶的時候能感受到一份生命的力量和靈魂,而不僅僅是塊昂貴高價的石頭。

To feel they are wearing a piece with life and spiritual, instead of just with expensive stones.

 作為一個設計師,(當開辟一個新設計的時候)你通常從什么地方汲取靈感?

As a designer, where do you draw your inspiration from (when working on a new line?) 

從旅行,閱讀還有記憶中獲取靈感。

Travel, reading, and memory.
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成為一個設計師后你最愛的關于這份職業的一個部分是什么?

What’s your favorite part about being a designer?

我可以戴著自己設計的藝術品讓我變的光彩照人。同時,我還可以和世界上最美麗稀有的石頭打交道。

That at least I can make myself gorgeous by wearing my own designs. Also, I can play with the most beautiful and rarest stones.

 成為一個設計師最艱難的部分是什么?

What’s the hardest part about being a designer? 

在把我的設計變的光彩照人而不是被一塊昂貴的石頭所支配驅使之間取得平衡,于此同時也要使這塊原石升華它本有的價值。

Balancing how to make my designs outstanding instead of being dominated by expensive stones, and also the need to make the value of stone amplified by exquisite detail of design at the same time.


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 Dandelion love– brooch
蒲公英之愛胸針
1.06ct Colombian emerald/ rose-cut diamond/ 18k yellow gold /18k gold
1.06ct 哥倫比亞祖母綠/玫瑰切鉆石/18k黃金/18k白金
 This contemporary style jewelry piece is in the meaning of spreading love to every corner of world, bespoke created for Charity Auction “ Teach for China” Gala.

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 Leaf of Season – earring 四季葉耳環

White Diamond / Yellow Diamond/18k Yellow Gold/18k White Gold

白鉆/黃鉆/18k黃金/18k 白金

在你看來,珠寶行業的新趨勢是什么?

What are, in your opinion, the upcoming trends in the jewelry industry? 

在高級珠寶行業,我認為藝術創意性一直是一脈相承的。

In high jewelry, I think the artistic creativity is always on.

誰是你最喜歡的設計師?

Who are your favorite designers?

西方的話是J.A.R;東方的話是Wallace Chan。

In Western world is J.A.R; in Eastern world is Wallace Chan.

 哪件事你最喜歡的自己設計的珠寶?是什么讓它對你意義非凡?

What’s your favorite piece that you’ve created so far and why? What makes it so special to you? 

一條叫"La Orchidée"獨一無二的一條項鏈,當時我全身心地投入到這件藝術品中,大概和法國頂級工匠一起花了一年半的時間才完成;它是一件由無數顆寶石組成的作品,同時也用到了鈦金屬。說真的,這件作品真的歷經無數試驗包括不同的工藝和材質,而且對我而言它就像是一只美麗的蝴蝶的完美再生。

The one-of-a-kind necklace "La Orchidée", as this artistic creation is truly made of the spirit with which I dedicate myself to jewelry design. It took me almost a year and a half to work on with top French craftsman; it’s handmade with numerous gemstones, and it uses titanium. Really, it was as an experiment for testing different materials and new techniques, and so to me, the intricate complexity of the whole process is like a reincarnation of beautiful butterfly.

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Floral Fairy- ring/necklace pendant花語-戒指/項鏈吊墜

4.5ct Burmese Unheated Pigeon blood ruby/ ruby/ Imperial icy-crystal jade/ 1.2ct white diamond/ Diamond/ 18k gold

4.5ct 緬甸無燒鴿血紅/紅寶石/冰種翡翠雕件/白鉆/18k白金

 對于以設計為職業的群體你有什么樣的建議嗎?
What advice would you give to people wishing to pursue a career in design? 

做你自己就好。

Be your own style.

 你的一天是什么樣的?

What does a normal day look like for you? 

工作,工作,再工作。但是我樂在其中!

Work, work, work. But I do enjoy it!

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 對于豐吉這個品牌,你對它有什么未來的計劃和設想?
What’s next - what is the future vision for the brand? 
我們準備在Place Vendôme設立一個私人的陳列室,這在中國設計師中是史無前例的第一次-這就像是夢想成真的感覺一樣-在珠寶王國的心臟!我的未來的設想是成為世界上最有辨識度的中國珠寶設計師,并用我中西方結合的思想和設計理念把我的品牌進一步推廣到全世界。
We are preparing to set up a private showroom in Place Vendôme, which has never done by any Chinese jewelry designer before - it's kind of dream comes alive - at the very heart place of jewelry kingdom! The future vision is to be the most recognized Chinese jewelry designer brand on the world stage, with my own East-meets-West signature style and essence. 

 

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